As we switch rapidly from spring to summer, who wants to spend hours hunched over a hot stove? Özlem Warren’s recipe for ispanaklı peynirli börek – a traditional Turkish dish made of flaky pastry oozing with spinach and cheese – can be made ahead and is ideal for a picnic, a packed lunch or a simple supper (plus it freezes well!).
Özlem, who was born and grew up in Turkey, is the author of the sumptuous new cookbook Istanbul, subtitled “Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City”. The renowned food writer Diana Henry is generous with her praise, saying: “I couldn’t love this book more.”
For Özlem, one of the reasons for writing Istanbul is to show that Turkish food “is not just kebabs and this and that, that you might see in touristy areas. You really need to dig deep. Go to different neighbourhoods to check out delicious regional specialties.” There are recipes for mantı – dumplings of Turkic nomadic origin – and for the Ottoman-era classic hünkar beğendi, a kind of multicultural meze.
Although not born in the ancient capital, so “not an official İstanbullu”, Özlem says: “I found huge inspiration in its vibrant food scene and loved nothing more than soaking up the bustling atmosphere of the Mısır Çarşısı [Spice Bazaar] and the many pazar [farmers’ markets] dotted around the city.”
Of the dish she shares today, she says: “This delicious börek was also often on the table when I was a child, served as a snack, as an after-school treat, or when we had guests.”
Words by Jane Ferguson
Photography by Sam A Harris
Özlem’s ispanaklı peynirli börek
Traditionally, these are made with fresh yufka sheets, though filo sheets work well too. I use a mixture of beyaz peynir, a cheese similar to feta, and medium cheddar (or Turkish kaşar) but you can use other cheeses as you wish, as well as other leafy greens or herbs you have to hand. The mixture of egg, olive oil and milk used to brush the filo sheets keeps them moist and adds flavour. The sparkling water in the glaze puffs up the börek slightly and gives a delightful crispness.
Makes 12 slices
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil, for greasing
2 x 270g packs of filo sheets – 14 sheets in total (48cm x 26cm), defrosted
1 medium egg, beaten
1 tbsp golden sesame seeds
½ tbsp nigella seeds
For the filling
200g spinach leaves, roughly chopped
4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
½ tbsp dried oregano
2 tbsps olive oil
200g taze kaşar or medium cheddar, grated
200g beyaz peynir or feta, drained and crumbled
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For brushing
1 medium egg, beaten
110ml whole milk
1 tbsp olive oil
90ml sparkling water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Method
Preheat the oven to 180C fan/200C (Gas Mark 6).
Grease the base and sides of a 20cm x 30cm x 5cm baking dish with olive oil.
First, make the filling. Using your hands, combine the spinach, spring onions, dried oregano, olive oil and seasoning in a large bowl, kneading the oil and seasoning into the spinach. Stir in the cheeses, then season to taste.
Combine the beaten egg, milk, olive oil and sparkling water for brushing in a small bowl, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Open the packs of filo, place the sheets on a clean, dry surface and cover with a damp tea towel or a couple of damp paper towels so they don’t dry out. Cut the filo sheets into rectangles measuring 20cm x 30cm, so they fit your baking dish. You will need 21 sheets, combining two of the smaller-sized offcuts to make one big sheet (which will make seven roughly baking-dish-sized sheets when combined).
Place two sheets in the greased dish and brush with 2 tbsps of the milk mixture. Then layer in the combined sheets and brush with the milk mixture. Continue layering the sheets, brushing every two layers, until you reach the 11th sheet. Brush again with the milk mixture, then add the filling, spread it in an even layer, and gently pat down. Cover with two sheets of filo, brush these with the milk mixture, then continue layering the sheets, brushing with the milk mixture every two sheets, until you reach the last sheet.
Pour over the remaining milk mixture and tuck in the edges.
Cut the börek into 12 slices and let the milk mixture penetrate through all the slices. Brush the top with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the sesame and nigella seeds. Let the börek soak up the liquid for 5 mins, then bake for 35 mins, or until golden on top.
Leave to cool for 10 mins, then serve warm or at room temperature. It is lovely with a glass of çay (Turkish tea).
Istanbul by Özlem Warren is published by Quadrille, £28