Nargisse Benkabbou. Photo: Jinane Ennasri
The chef and food writer Nargisse Benkabbou grew up in Belgium, the daughter of parents who had emigrated from Fez but who brought the flavours and the spices of home to their adopted country. As she writes in Madaq, her new cookbook: “Both my parents are food-obsessed, and they used food as a way to anchor us to our Moroccan heritage. So, even though we were in the heart of Brussels, our dining table was really a little piece of Morocco.”
After studying politics in Paris and London, Nargisse decided to switch to food and enrolled at Leiths School of Food and Wine. She now divides her time between London and Marrakech and is known for her Moroccan recipes with a twist. Madaq – which translates as “flavour” – was “a four-year labour of love” and is beautifully illustrated with photographs taken by Jinane Ennasri on a road trip the two took across the country – “I want you to feel transported, to cook and feel the sun, the dust, the spice, the warmth.” Nigella Lawson, for one, is a fan and says: “it is a blessing for the home cook, allowing us to bring the flavours of Benkabbou’s food to life in our own kitchens.”
Nargisse writes on Instagram as @mymoroccanfood, where she has nearly 80,000 followers, and on Substack. For the long bank holiday weekend we decided to lean into lazy mornings and share an easy breakfast/brunch recipe. She promises that it is “quick and easy” and a “delicious, stress-free Moroccan breakfast”.
Words by Jane Ferguson
Baked Chermoula Potatoes with Eggs. Photo: Issy Croker
Nargisse’s batata m’chermla
The name of this popular dish translates as “potatoes in chermoula” – the signature marinade of Moroccan cuisine, usually made with coriander, parsley, garlic, spices, lemon juice and olive oil (we have included the marinade recipe below). The chermoula-marinated potatoes, crispy around the edges and soft on the inside, are served with eggs baked in the same pan, just until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny.
Serves 4
Ingredients
150g classic chermoula (see below)
680g Maris Piper or other floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 2.5cm pieces
1½ tbsp olive oil
4 eggs
½ small red onion, finely chopped
10g flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
Hot sauce to serve, such as harissa or Cholula (optional)
Method
Preheat the oven to 220C (200C fan). Put the chermoula and potatoes in a large bowl and toss to coat.
Drizzle the olive oil over the bottom of a baking tray and use your hands or a pastry brush to spread it evenly over the base. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer in the tray, leaving as much space as possible between them.
Bake the potatoes for 15 mins. Remove the tray from the oven, flip the potatoes over with a spatula, and bake for another 10-15 mins, until the potatoes are soft and the edges are starting to crisp up.
Arrange the potatoes in the tray to make four wells for the eggs and crack an egg into each well. Bake for 4-5 mins, or until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny and the potatoes are crispy around the edges.
Scatter the chopped red onion and parsley over the potatoes and eggs and serve immediately, with hot sauce if you like.
Classic chermoula
Chermoula is a cornerstone of Moroccan cuisine and the backbone of countless dishes. It is most often used as a marinade, but it can also be served as a condiment. Every region or family has its own version: warm spices like cumin and sweet paprika add depth of flavour, and other ingredients such as saffron, tomato puree or preserved lemons may also be included.
I usually keep my basic chermoula simple, making it more versatile. Traditionally, it is prepared in a mortar and pestle, but you can chop the herbs by hand or in a food processor. When it is used as a marinade, chermoula infuses fish, chicken or other proteins with flavour and also tenderises them slightly because of the acidity of the lemon juice. Served as a condiment, it adds a burst of fresh flavour to dishes such as grilled meats, pasta or rice. It’s best when freshly made – if stored, its flavour will mellow slightly over time.
Makes 150g
Ingredients
5 tbsp olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced or crushed
20g coriander leaves and tender stems, finely chopped
20g flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems, finely chopped
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 tsp sweet paprika
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp fine sea salt
Generous pinch of granulated sugar
Method
Combine the olive oil, garlic, coriander, parsley, lemon juice, paprika, cumin, salt and sugar in a medium bowl and mix well. The chermoula can be kept in a sealed container in the fridge for up to three days.
Madaq – Simple & Delicious Recipes Inspired by Moroccan Flavours is published by Quadrille, £28